Bethesda Blog
An occasional commentary on events in and around North Wales
The views experessed here are not necessarily those
of the Scout Association, Greater London South West, or the moderators
of the web site. Sometimes, I'm not even sure I believe in them myself.
Nevertheless, no offence is intended to anyone on any grounds, so I hope
none will be taken.
| 5th August |
| The OVMRO (Ogwen
Valley Mountain Rescue Organisation) have recently had another
extension to their base completed - this time a nother garage to house
the seond Land Rover. The official opening was performed by Mr Richard
Brunstrom, Chief Constable of North Wales Police. |
Chris Cooksy (Chairman, OVMRO) and
Richard Brunstrom (Chief Constable, North Wales Police)
|
|
| 4th August |
| Out up Tryfan again, with the Erickson Explorers. Although it was
overcast when we started, this time the weather was less windy, so
the parties were able to stay on the North Ridge. Once again, a good
day was had by all. |
On 'The Cannon', North Ridge of tryfan |
|
| 3rd August |
| A bright afternoon, and I was invited to join John, David and Rhiannon
climbing on the Milestone Buttress. We did Direct Route, still a classic,
if a bit polished now. |
Rhiannon, on the hand travers at the 'Bivalve'
Direct Route, Milestone Buttress |
|
| 2nd August |
| The Erickson Explorer Unit are staying at the Base, and I've been
joining in with some of their activities. Yesterday we were climbing
on the wall at Indefatigable (due to the weather being too poor to
go out onto proper rock), and Today two groups went up Tryfan. High
winds meant that it was a chilly day, so less scrambling on the North
Ridge, and more hiding from the wind on the Eastern Traverse. We managed
to get everyone together for a summit picture. |
Tryfan Summit |
|
| 28th July |
| Today I had an invitation to a place in a boat for one of the races
in the Menai Straits Regatta. Start and finish was Caernarfon, so
you could hardly ask for a finer backdrop. We were sailing a Pandora
Mk 1, a 22 foot 4 berth cruiser. Of course we won. Ok, so the only
other yacht in the class retired, but we were well ahead when they
dropped out. |
Start Line at Caernarfon
Spinnakers flying on the run down from buoy 7
|
|
| 27th July |
Another fine day, and we were back out on the North Wall of the
Devil's Kitchen cliffs checking the climb grades for the new guide.
Once again we were the only people on the cliff, although there
was quite a bit of activity on the slabs.
Once again we had the company of the Peregrine Falcon, buzzards
and ravens. |
Mike high on the Devil's Nordwand |
|
| 25th July |
The plan was to get away straight after lunch, drive over to
the Brakwater Country Park at Holyhead, walk over to Wen Zawn, climb
the classic route 'A Dream of White Horses', and then get over to
South Stack to meet up with the regular Tuesday evening climbing
crowd. Ah! The best laid plans fo Mice and Men etc.
The reality was that the start from Bangor was somewhat later than
anticipated, close to 4.00 pm, and a scorching hot afternoon meant
that you never seem to move as quickly as you expect.
We opted for the alternative start, so it was only a short abseil
down the slab to reach a start point for the route. A Dream of White
Horses is a traverse of Wen Slab descibed as VS 9Very Severe) climbing
in an E1 situation. There is a pitch which comes up from close to
sea level to the point we took for a start, and it then does a rising
traverse across the slab for two pitches. The route then continues
traversing over a natural arch, and beneath a line of overhangs
- no escape up or down. The only consolation is that the climbing
is a little easier. Eventually a weakness in the overhangs is reached,
and the cliff top can be gained. All in all a superb climb.
As for the plan to meet the others - it was about 9.30 when we
got off the climb, and we barely got to the pub before closing. |
A Dream of White Horses (HVS 5a, 5a, 4c)
The final pitch
The exit groove |
|
| 24th July |
The weekend has been mixed, wetherwise. Saturday was very hot
and humid, but the evening became a little cooler, and a stiff breeze
at Rhoscolyn made sea cliff climbing very pleasant, if not a little
cool.
On Sunday we were out in Cwm Idwal, again checking route descriptions
for the forthcoming guide. This time it was on the cliffs of Clogwyn
y Geifr, and a couple of routes alled 'God's Little Acre' and 'Junior
Slab'. A much cooler day, and a just a few spots of rain to threaten.
It is colourful in the hills at the moment, and although some of
the flowers have already finished, there are many still in bloom.
It was lovely to see Raven and buzzard out in groups, presumably
fledged chicks with the adults, and we also had an inspection from
a passing Perigine Falcon - close enough to hear the wind rush over
its wings.. |
English Stonecrop |
Common Sundew in Flower |
Heather and Bog Asphodel |
Peregrine Falcon |
|
|
| 22nd july |
Paid another visit to the Osprey Project today.
Unfortunately, one of the chicks died from, as yet, unknown causes,
but the other two have both fledged, but are still in the region of
the nest. |
The Glaslyn Osprey Project Viewing hide. Cnicht in the background. |
|
| 15th - 16th July |
This weekend saw the return of the GLSW Rock course, this year held
in the Peak district, camping at the Eric Byne site, and climbing
on Birchen Edge.
Feedback seems to have been very positive, but given the weather it
could hardly have been otherwise. We had people oput for the experience,
to improve, to start leading, and up for assessment for authorisation.
The weather was so hot, that at times the rock was uncomfortably warm
to the touch! |
Ian bringing Natalie up Trafalgar Crack
Alan brining yours truly up Porthole Direct |
|
| 11th July |
Our regular Tuesday evening climbing session was on slate this
week, and specifically Vivian Quarry, where the LLanberis Lake Railway
starts.
Here, 'Mac' is pulling over the overlap on the 'Dervish' slab, on
a route called Last Tango in Paris.
The long evenings and good weather are giving us great opportunities
to get out. |
'Mac' on Last Tango in Paris (E2 5c), Vivan Quarry |
|
| 5th July |
| This evening the rescue team were invited to a tour of the new North
Wales Police Operations and Communications Division Control Room.
Very impressive, and believed to be th most advanced in the country,
with space for over 120 operatives able to answer 91% of 999 calls
within 8 seconds. |
North Wales Police OCD Control Room
|
|
| 1st July |
On Saturday we were climbing on the Terrace Wall of the East Face
of Tryfan. Actually we were there on a mission. Mike is one of the
faces behind the re-write of the Ogwen guidebook, and we were checking
descriptions and grades of routes that had either been reported as
suspect, or see very few ascents.
The plan was to look at three of Hugh Banner's routes all graded at
HVS 5a. The first one turned out to be serious enough that re-grading
to E2 5c seems in order, and that didn't leave enough time to check
the others, so insttead wwe did Long Chimney, which had acquired a
reputation for being harder than its current grade of Hard Severe.
We agreed, and it should go into the new guide at Very Severe, 4c,
4b. |
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